As an avid ice climber, I understand the importance of having the right gear for different climbing conditions. Dry tooling, a form of climbing that involves using ice axes and crampons on bare rock, requires specialized equipment. One of the most essential tools for dry tooling is the ice axe. A good ice axe can make a significant difference in your performance, allowing you to maintain control and make precise placements.
When it comes to choosing the best ice axe for dry tooling, there are several factors to consider. The weight of the axe is crucial, as a lighter axe can reduce fatigue and make it easier to move quickly and efficiently. The shape and design of the pick is also important, as it determines how well the axe penetrates the rock and provides stability.
Additionally, the length and curve of the shaft should be taken into account, as they affect your ability to swing the axe and secure it in cracks and pockets. Finally, the grip of the ice axe can greatly impact your comfort and control while climbing. With these factors in mind, I have researched and tested various ice axes to find the best ones for dry tooling.
How to Choose the Best Ice Axe for Dry Tooling
When it comes to dry tooling, having the right ice axe can make all the difference. As someone who has been involved in this sport for years, I understand the importance of choosing the best ice axe for dry tooling. Here are a few factors to consider when making your decision:
1. Consider the Design
When choosing an ice axe for dry tooling, it’s important to consider the design. Look for an axe that has a curved or angled shaft, as this will allow for better placement and a more ergonomic grip. Additionally, consider the length of the axe. A shorter axe may be easier to swing and maneuver, while a longer axe may provide more leverage.
2. Assess the Weight
The weight of the ice axe is another important factor to consider. While a lightweight axe may be easier to swing and carry, it may sacrifice durability. On the other hand, a heavier axe may provide more power and stability, but it can be tiring to use for long periods of time. Think about your own strength and endurance when choosing the weight of the ice axe.
3. Look for Durability
Dry tooling can put a lot of stress on an ice axe, so durability is essential. Look for an axe that is made from high-quality materials like steel or aluminum. Consider the construction of the axe, ensuring that it is strong and can withstand the rigors of dry tooling. You want an axe that will last and perform reliably.
4. Test the Grip
A secure and comfortable grip is crucial when dry tooling. Look for an axe with a grip that feels natural in your hand and provides good traction. Some axes have rubber or textured grips that can enhance your hold. It’s also a good idea to try out different axes to see how they feel in your hand before making a final decision.
By taking these factors into consideration, you’ll be able to choose the best ice axe for dry tooling that suits your needs and enhances your performance. Remember, safety should always be a top priority, so make sure to use proper technique and equipment when participating in this challenging sport.
My Top 5 Ice Axes for Dry Tooling
As an experienced climber and avid dry tooling enthusiast, I have had the opportunity to test out numerous ice axes over the years. Through my extensive experience, I have narrowed down my top five picks for the best ice axes for dry tooling. These axes offer the perfect combination of durability, versatility, and performance, making them essential tools for any dry tooling adventure.
1. Black Diamond Fuel
The Black Diamond Fuel is my go-to ice axe for dry tooling. Its lightweight design, featuring a carbon fiber shaft, allows for easy swings and precise placements. The aggressive pick and ergonomic handle provide excellent control and grip, even on the most challenging terrain. Additionally, the Fuel has an adjustable bottom hand grip, allowing for customized hand positions to maximize efficiency and comfort.
2. Petzl Nomic
The Petzl Nomic is another top choice for dry tooling. This ice axe boasts a unique ergonomic design that provides a comfortable and secure grip. Its hot-forged steel head and modular pick design ensure optimum penetration and durability. The Nomic also offers an adjustable grip rest, enabling climbers to easily switch between different hand positions for improved performance.
3. Grivel Tech Machine
The Grivel Tech Machine is a favorite among dry tooling enthusiasts for its exceptional versatility. This ice axe features an adjustable, ergonomic handle that can be switched between a T-rated or R-rated position, providing climbers with different grip options for various climbing styles. The Tech Machine’s hot-forged chromoly steel head and aggressive pick make it highly durable and reliable for challenging dry tooling routes.
4. Cassin X-Dream
The Cassin X-Dream excels in steep and technical dry tooling terrain. Its patented double grip design allows climbers to switch between a traditional and crossed grip easily. The X-Dream’s interchangeable pick system provides versatility for different ice and mixed climbing conditions. The W-rated shaft and aggressive pick ensure dependable performance and excellent power transmission.
5. Black Diamond Reactor
The Black Diamond Reactor is a popular choice for climbers seeking a comfortable and efficient ice axe for dry tooling. It features a hydroformed shaft that offers precise control and reduced vibration. The Reactor’s aggressive pick and serrated blade deliver excellent penetration and secure placements, even in icy and compact ice conditions. The angle-adjustable grip provides added versatility and comfort during long climbing sessions.
These top five ice axes for dry tooling offer climbers a range of options to suit their individual preferences and climbing style. Whether you’re a seasoned dry tooling expert or just getting started, investing in a high-quality ice axe is crucial for a successful and enjoyable climb. Remember to prioritize safety and always practice proper technique when engaging in dry tooling activities.
Comparison of Ice Axes for Dry Tooling
I have been an avid dry tooling enthusiast for several years now, and during that time, I have had the opportunity to test and compare different ice axes specifically designed for this challenging style of climbing. In this article, I will share my insights and provide a detailed comparison of some of the best ice axes for dry tooling.
1. Petzl Nomic
The Petzl Nomic is a popular choice among dry tooling enthusiasts. Its lightweight design and ergonomic shape make it easy to handle and maneuver on steep ice and mixed routes. The Nomic features an adjustable grip rest, which allows climbers to find the most comfortable hand positioning for optimal performance. The stainless steel pick is durable and provides excellent traction, while the interchangeable pick weights allow for customization based on personal preferences and ice conditions.
2. Black Diamond Fuel
The Black Diamond Fuel is another top contender in the world of dry tooling. This ice axe features a hybrid design with a curved shaft for efficient swinging and a hammer for added versatility. The Fuel’s redesigned stainless steel pick offers improved penetration and durability, while the aggressive teeth on the bottom of the shaft provide additional grip when hooking onto ice features. The adjustable grip and rubberized handle offer excellent comfort and control, even in colder conditions.
3. Grivel Tech Machine
The Grivel Tech Machine is a high-performance ice axe specifically designed for dry tooling and mixed climbing. With its hot-forged chromoly steel head and aggressive pick, the Tech Machine excels in steep ice and challenging mixed terrain. The dual-density handle offers a secure grip and dampens vibrations, reducing fatigue during long climbs. The modular construction allows climbers to switch between a hammer or adze, depending on the route’s requirements.
Each of these ice axes has its strengths and weaknesses, and the best choice ultimately depends on an individual’s preferences and climbing style. It is important to consider factors such as weight, ergonomics, pick design, and versatility when selecting an ice axe for dry tooling. By researching and comparing different options, climbers can find the perfect ice axe to enhance their dry tooling experience.
Tips for Using an Ice Axe for Dry Tooling
As an experienced climber, I understand the importance of using the right tools and techniques when it comes to dry tooling. Dry tooling is a style of climbing that involves using ice axes and crampons on rock surfaces with little or no ice. It requires a specific set of skills and equipment, and using an ice axe correctly is crucial for your safety and success.
Choose the Right Ice Axe: When it comes to dry tooling, not all ice axes are created equal. Look for an ice axe specifically designed for dry tooling, as it will have a curved shaft and a sharp pick that provide better stability and grip on the rock. Consider the length of the ice axe as well, as it should be long enough to provide leverage but not too long that it becomes cumbersome.
Technique and Safety:
- Proper Grip: Hold the ice axe firmly but without too much tension. Your grip should allow for precise movements and adjustments as you navigate the rock.
- Pick Placement: Position the ice axe pick securely on the rock surface, aiming for solid holds. Practice placing the pick in different positions and angles to gain a better understanding of how it interacts with the rock.
- Balance and Body Position: Maintain a balanced stance and distribute your weight evenly between your feet and the ice axe. Keep your body close to the rock to increase stability and control.
- Footwork: Utilize your crampons effectively to gain traction on the rock. Look for small ledges or cracks where you can place the front points of your crampons to provide added support.
- Progression: Dry tooling requires careful planning and progression. Evaluate each move, assessing the stability and quality of the rock before committing your weight. Take your time and be patient with your movements.
- Safety Precautions: Always wear a helmet and other protective gear when dry tooling. Make sure to inspect your ice axe for any damage or wear before each climb, and replace it if necessary. Remember to always climb with a partner and communicate your intentions clearly.
Dry tooling can be a challenging and exhilarating form of climbing. By choosing the right ice axe and practicing proper technique and safety precautions, you can improve your skills and enjoy this unique style of climbing to the fullest.
Maintenance and Care of Your Ice Axe
Maintaining and caring for your ice axe is essential to ensure its longevity and optimal performance. Here are some tips to help you keep your ice axe in top condition:
Clean after every use: After each use, make sure to clean your ice axe thoroughly. Remove any ice, snow, or dirt that may have accumulated on the axe head and shaft. Use a brush or a toothbrush to clean hard-to-reach areas.
Inspect for damage: Regularly inspect your ice axe for any signs of damage or wear. Check the axe head, shaft, and pick for cracks, dents, or chips. If you notice any damage, it is important to address it promptly to ensure your safety during use.
Sharpen the pick: The pick of your ice axe can become dull over time. Use a file or a whetstone to sharpen the pick, ensuring it maintains its sharpness for efficient penetration into the ice or rock. Be careful while sharpening not to remove too much material, as this can weaken the pick.
Tighten loose components: Periodically check all the components of your ice axe, including the head, pick, and handle, to make sure they are secure and tightly fastened. If you notice any loose components, use a wrench or a screwdriver to tighten them.
Store properly: When not in use, store your ice axe in a cool and dry place to prevent corrosion and damage. Make sure the axe is clean and dry before storing it to avoid rusting.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions: Different ice axes may have specific care instructions provided by their manufacturers. Make sure to read and follow these instructions to ensure you are properly maintaining your ice axe.
Summary:
- Clean your ice axe after every use to remove any ice, snow, or dirt.
- Regularly inspect your axe for damage or wear.
- Sharpen the pick to maintain its sharpness.
- Tighten any loose components.
- Store your ice axe in a cool and dry place.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for maintenance.
10 Best Ice Axe For Dry Tooling
Lightweight Grivel GZERO Ice Axe 66 for Classical Alpinism, Black
Features
| Part Number | gv-PIG0S-66 |
| Model | 756041 |
| Warranty | 3 year manufacturer |
| Color | Black |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Release Date | 2019-03-19T00:00:01Z |
| Size | 66 |
- A new generation of walking axe. GZERO a very light ice axe for classical alpinism that still has all the characteristics of a Grivel ice axe including, head that provides maximum strength and minimal weight.
- The pick is classically neutral with ergonomic design that remains comfortable after hours of climbing.
- The brand insulating removable ergonomic blade cover lets the user firmly grip the axe by the head without risk of injury.
- It also protects the hand from contact with cold metal especially in low temperatures and high altitudes expeditions.
- The perfect tool to discover the mountains with added safety and comfort.
- CE Certified B Rated; Carbon Steel Blade; Weight 66cm: 425 grams / 15 oz.
PETZL - Gully, Ultralight Ice Axe for Technical Mountaineering and Skiing, Adze
Features
| Part Number | U014AA00 |
| Model | U014AA00 |
| Color | Orange |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | One Size |
- HIGHLY TECHNICAL: The GULLY ice axe is designed for technical mountaineering and steep skiing. The steel head and banana-shaped pick allows for efficient penetration and easy unhooking.
- LIGHTWEIGHT: Weighing in at only 280 grams, it's light enough for longer treks and climbs and you can add weights (sold separately) to improve the anchoring qualities.
- COMPACT: The GULLY is only 45 cm in length and has a beveled spike, allowing for easy storage inside your pack and reduced risk of injury when attached to the outside of your pack.
- EASY TO USE: The TRIGREST handrest allows for your hand position to be quickly adjusted without tools when changing climbing modes.
- MINIMAL: The minimalist adze and hammer help clean holds or hammer a piton back in.
Trango Raptor Ice Tool - Lightweight Aluminum Ice Axe for Mountaineering, Balanced Geometry for Solid Sticks, Ergonomic Handle
Features
| Part Number | 29003 |
| Model | Trango |
| Color | Black |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | One Size |
- THE ULTIMATE SWING & BITE - The Raptor is our top of the line leashless ice and mixed tool that swings beautifully and bites like a dream; The grip is one-piece molded rubber for comfort, durability and reduced fatigue
- RAZOR SHARP - The pick penetrates the hardest ice with minimal force & cleans easily
- VERSATILE DESIGN - Removable weights included are included for added versatility
- TECH SPECS - Weight: 575 g without pick weights / 640 g with weights; Comes with ice-specific pick only; Pick covers included
PETZL Glacier Ice Axe - Lightweight Performance Ice Axe for Mountaineering and Glacier Travel - 60 cm
Features
| Part Number | Glacier_Grey_60 cm |
| Model | U01B 060 |
| Color | silver |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | 60 cm |
- LIGHTWEIGHT PERFORMANCE: The GLACIER is built to keep you secure during glacier travel without weighing you down.
- PROPRIETARY STEEL: Petzl ice picks are constructed using a proprietary blend of the world's highest quality steel.
- EASY ANCHORING: Whether you're trudging up hard snow, battling through ice, or traversing the glacier; with its thin and durable steel pick and stainless steel spike, the GLACIER ice axe is built for easy, secure anchoring.
- GRIP YOU CAN TRUST: Anodized, aeronautic-grade aluminum shaft and machined handle ensure a reliable grip.
- VERSATILITY REDEFINED: Steel adze designed for efficient cutting of steps. Head and spike equipped with holes for clipping a carabiner or attaching a sling.
Petzl Ergonomic Adult Unisex Ice Gun, Multi-Colour, One Size
Features
| Part Number | U022AA00 |
| Model | U022AA00 |
| Color | Multicolor |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | One Size |
- The ERGONOMIC ice axe
- Designed for stiff ice and dry tools
- The strong tilt of the handle
- Ensures an ideal angle
- Extended suspension and higher traction efficiency
FAQ:
What is dry tooling?
Dry tooling is a climbing technique that involves using ice tools to ascend a route with little or no ice. It typically involves climbing rock formations or artificial structures using ice axes and crampons.
What is the best ice axe for dry tooling?
There are several ice axes that are well-suited for dry tooling. Some popular options include the Petzl Quark, the Black Diamond Viper, and the Grivel Machine 3. These ice axes have a curved shaft and aggressive picks, which provide good grip and stability while dry tooling.
Conclusion
In conclusion, finding the best ice axe for dry tooling is a crucial decision for any climber looking to conquer challenging icy terrains. The Grivel Tech Machine and the Petzl Quark are two exceptional options that provide the necessary features and capabilities for this extreme sport. The Tech Machine’s ergonomically designed handle and durable construction make it perfect for long and demanding routes. On the other hand, the Quark’s versatility and precision allow climbers to tackle a wide range of ice and mixed conditions. Ultimately, climbers must consider their personal preferences and specific needs when choosing the best ice axe for their dry tooling adventures. With the right ice axe in hand, climbers can push their limits and experience the thrill of conquering icy challenges.
