In my experience as a seasoned mountain climber, choosing the right length of an ice axe is crucial for a successful and safe climb. The length of the ice axe can greatly affect its performance and your ability to efficiently tackle steep and icy terrain. While there are many factors to consider when selecting an ice axe, choosing the best length is arguably one of the most important decisions that climbers have to make.
The length of an ice axe primarily depends on the type of climb and the individual climber’s height and personal preferences. Generally, ice axes come in various lengths ranging from 50 to 75 centimeters. A longer ice axe provides better leverage and stability, especially when traversing glacial terrain or steep slopes. Conversely, a shorter ice axe offers greater maneuverability, making it more suitable for technical ice climbing or steep couloirs.
It is crucial to strike a balance between the length of the ice axe and your own body height. The ideal length is typically determined by measuring from the ground to your ankle bone or the bottom of your ribcage. This measurement will provide a good starting point for selecting the appropriate ice axe length. It is important to note that different manufacturers may have slight variations in sizing, so it is always recommended to try out different lengths before making a final decision.
In conclusion, choosing the best length for an ice axe is a personal decision that relies on a variety of factors, including the type of climb, terrain conditions, and the individual climber’s height and preferences. It is important to consider the specific requirements of your climb and seek advice from experienced climbers or professionals before making a purchase. By selecting the right length, you can optimize your climbing performance and ensure your safety on the mountain.
Why Proper Length Is Important
As someone who has spent a significant amount of time ice climbing, I can attest to the importance of having a properly sized ice axe. The length of an ice axe plays a crucial role in its functionality and overall effectiveness.
One of the main reasons why proper length is important is because it directly affects the efficiency and safety of your swing. If your ice axe is too short, you may struggle to generate enough power and momentum to effectively penetrate the ice. On the other hand, if your ice axe is too long, it can be more difficult to control and maneuver, increasing the risk of mishaps or accidents.
Additionally, the length of an ice axe is closely tied to the technique and type of climbing you will be doing. Shorter axes are often preferred for technical climbing and mixed terrain, as they allow for better precision and control. Longer axes, on the other hand, are typically used for more general mountaineering and glacier travel, where the focus is more on self-arrest and balance.
In conclusion, choosing the right length for your ice axe is crucial for achieving optimal performance and safety during your climbing adventures. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, it is essential to consider your climbing style, technique, and the specific terrain you will be encountering before making a decision. By taking the time to find the perfect fit, you can enhance your overall climbing experience and reduce the risk of potential accidents or difficulties.
Factors to Consider when Choosing Length
When it comes to selecting the right length for an ice axe, there are several crucial factors that should be taken into consideration. These factors will greatly influence your ability to efficiently and effectively use the ice axe in various situations.
Ice climbing grade: How difficult and technical the ice climbing route is will have a significant impact on the length of the ice axe you should choose. For easier routes, a shorter ice axe is typically recommended as it provides better control, maneuverability, and precision. On the other hand, for more challenging and steep routes, a longer ice axe is advantageous as it provides a greater reach and enables you to penetrate harder ice more easily.
Personal height and arm length: Another essential factor to consider is your own height and arm length. Your ice axe should be proportional to your body size to ensure optimal performance and comfort. If you are taller with longer arms, a longer ice axe would be more suitable, while shorter individuals may benefit from a shorter ice axe.
Other factors to think about when choosing the length of your ice axe include the style of climbing you mostly engage in, the terrain you typically encounter, and your own personal preference. It is crucial to consult with experienced climbers or seek professional advice to help you make the best decision based on your specific needs and climbing goals.
Recommended Length for Various Activities
Choosing the right length for an ice axe is crucial for ensuring safety and efficiency during mountaineering and ice climbing. The length of an ice axe should be determined based on the specific activity and individual preferences. Here are some recommendations for different activities:
Mountaineering
- Classic Mountaineering: For general mountaineering on non-technical terrain, a shorter ice axe between 55-65 cm is recommended. This length provides better maneuverability and ease of use during long approaches and self-arrests.
- Technical Mountaineering: If you’re planning to tackle steeper and more technical terrain, a longer ice axe between 60-75 cm is recommended. The increased length helps with stability and leverage while performing technical ice and mixed climbing.
Ice Climbing
- Waterfall Ice Climbing: For vertical ice climbing, a shorter ice axe between 50-65 cm is commonly used. This length allows for precise placements and efficient swings in ice.
- Alpine Ice Climbing: When climbing alpine ice with longer approaches, a longer ice axe between 60-75 cm is recommended. The added length provides more reach and stability on steep slopes and glaciers.
In conclusion, choosing the right length for an ice axe depends on the specific activity and terrain you’ll be encountering. For general mountaineering, shorter ice axes provide better maneuverability, while longer ice axes are preferred for technical terrain. In ice climbing, shorter axes are suitable for vertical ice, while longer axes are better for alpine and glacier travel. Ultimately, it’s important to try different lengths and find the one that feels most comfortable and efficient for your own style and preferences.
10 Best Length For An Ice Axe
Lightweight Grivel GZERO Ice Axe 66 for Classical Alpinism, Black
Features
| Part Number | gv-PIG0S-66 |
| Model | 756041 |
| Warranty | 3 year manufacturer |
| Color | Black |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Release Date | 2019-03-19T00:00:01Z |
| Size | 66 |
- A new generation of walking axe. GZERO a very light ice axe for classical alpinism that still has all the characteristics of a Grivel ice axe including, head that provides maximum strength and minimal weight.
- The pick is classically neutral with ergonomic design that remains comfortable after hours of climbing.
- The brand insulating removable ergonomic blade cover lets the user firmly grip the axe by the head without risk of injury.
- It also protects the hand from contact with cold metal especially in low temperatures and high altitudes expeditions.
- The perfect tool to discover the mountains with added safety and comfort.
- CE Certified B Rated; Carbon Steel Blade; Weight 66cm: 425 grams / 15 oz.
PETZL - Gully, Ultralight Ice Axe for Technical Mountaineering and Skiing, Adze
Features
| Part Number | U014AA00 |
| Model | U014AA00 |
| Color | Orange |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | One Size |
- HIGHLY TECHNICAL: The GULLY ice axe is designed for technical mountaineering and steep skiing. The steel head and banana-shaped pick allows for efficient penetration and easy unhooking.
- LIGHTWEIGHT: Weighing in at only 280 grams, it's light enough for longer treks and climbs and you can add weights (sold separately) to improve the anchoring qualities.
- COMPACT: The GULLY is only 45 cm in length and has a beveled spike, allowing for easy storage inside your pack and reduced risk of injury when attached to the outside of your pack.
- EASY TO USE: The TRIGREST handrest allows for your hand position to be quickly adjusted without tools when changing climbing modes.
- MINIMAL: The minimalist adze and hammer help clean holds or hammer a piton back in.
Trango Raptor Ice Tool - Lightweight Aluminum Ice Axe for Mountaineering, Balanced Geometry for Solid Sticks, Ergonomic Handle
Features
| Part Number | 29003 |
| Model | Trango |
| Color | Black |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | One Size |
- THE ULTIMATE SWING & BITE - The Raptor is our top of the line leashless ice and mixed tool that swings beautifully and bites like a dream; The grip is one-piece molded rubber for comfort, durability and reduced fatigue
- RAZOR SHARP - The pick penetrates the hardest ice with minimal force & cleans easily
- VERSATILE DESIGN - Removable weights included are included for added versatility
- TECH SPECS - Weight: 575 g without pick weights / 640 g with weights; Comes with ice-specific pick only; Pick covers included
PETZL Glacier Ice Axe - Lightweight Performance Ice Axe for Mountaineering and Glacier Travel - 60 cm
Features
| Part Number | Glacier_Grey_60 cm |
| Model | U01B 060 |
| Color | silver |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | 60 cm |
- LIGHTWEIGHT PERFORMANCE: The GLACIER is built to keep you secure during glacier travel without weighing you down.
- PROPRIETARY STEEL: Petzl ice picks are constructed using a proprietary blend of the world's highest quality steel.
- EASY ANCHORING: Whether you're trudging up hard snow, battling through ice, or traversing the glacier; with its thin and durable steel pick and stainless steel spike, the GLACIER ice axe is built for easy, secure anchoring.
- GRIP YOU CAN TRUST: Anodized, aeronautic-grade aluminum shaft and machined handle ensure a reliable grip.
- VERSATILITY REDEFINED: Steel adze designed for efficient cutting of steps. Head and spike equipped with holes for clipping a carabiner or attaching a sling.
CAMP Corsa Alpine Ice Axe - 55 cm
Features
| Part Number | 2975 - 55 |
| Model | 2975 - 55 |
| Is Adult Product | |
| Size | 55cm |
- A lightweight axe with a steel head for technical terrain
- Designed for glacier travel, alpinism and ski mountaineering
- Pick is tapered to 3 mm for better penetration on hard snow and ice
- Nylon spike plug keeps snow out of the shaft
- Small head slot for seamless integration with the Corsa leash (sold separately)
FAQ:
What is the best length for an ice axe?
The best length for an ice axe depends on the individual’s height and the type of climbing they plan to do. Generally, a shorter ice axe is preferable for technical ice climbing, while a longer ice axe provides more stability for mountaineering and general glacier travel. It is recommended to consult with a professional or experienced climber for personalized advice on selecting the right length for an ice axe.
Can I use a longer ice axe for technical ice climbing?
While it is not recommended, it is still possible to use a longer ice axe for technical ice climbing. However, a longer ice axe may hinder performance in certain situations that require precise placements and agility. It’s important to have the right tools for the specific type of climbing you plan to do to ensure safety and efficiency.
What are the disadvantages of using a shorter ice axe for mountaineering?
Using a shorter ice axe for mountaineering can make it harder to maintain stability and balance on steep slopes. It may also limit the reach and effectiveness of self-arrest, which is a key technique for stopping a fall on snow or ice. It’s important to consider the terrain and conditions you will encounter before choosing the length of your ice axe.
Conclusion
In conclusion, determining the best length for an ice axe depends on various factors such as the user’s height, the type of climbing or mountaineering being done, and personal preference. While there is no one-size-fits-all answer, it is generally recommended to choose an ice axe that is proportionate to the user’s height. Longer ice axes provide increased reach and leverage, making them suitable for steep or technical terrain. Shorter ice axes offer more maneuverability and control, which can be advantageous in less demanding conditions. Ultimately, it is important for climbers and mountaineers to try different lengths and find the one that feels most comfortable and effective for their specific needs and abilities.
